JPK:

I see what you mean. Certainly, if the gun ultimately needs re-regulation and you're at all inclined to re-chamber, you might as well do it all at the same time. At any rate, until you find soft and solid loads that print pretty close to the same, you're not ready to re-regulate. If the solids are crossing slightly and the softs are shooting slightly apart, how do the velocities of the two compare? Sounds like this might be fairly simple to solve with handloads.

Best of luck on your hunt.

500 Nitro:

I understand your question. I resisted getting that rifle re-regulated for a number of years because I didn't understand that either. It is a pre-WWI rifle in fairly high original condition and the decision wasn't easy. I asked J. J. if the barrels would need to be re-blacked and he said that it usually wasn't necessary. When the gun came back there was NO physical evidence whatsoever that the barrels had been touched - except for the way it shot.

I've seen re-regulation done a few times since then and it isn't what I once imagined it to be. The barrels are not unsoldered and resoldered, they're simply heated enough to soften the solder enough so that the wedge and barrels can be moved. As I understand it (I'm strictly a layman here), as long as the heat is not overdone and the solder (and/or the gunk sometimes accumulated under the ribs which is often caustic) doesn't run, then the existing finish isn't ruined and re-blacking isn't required. Based on this understanding, if correct, I guess the need to re-black depends a lot on the skill of the regulator. J. J. is good.

Mick:

I certainly agree about the importance and value of re-proof, but I'm sure J. J. could return the gun to Belgium for this. Having worked in Liege and been an active importer from Europe since, I'm sure he knows the ins and outs of it.
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