| eljefedouble |
| (.300 member) |
| 31/01/14 10:47 PM |
Re: Just started Casting - Learning a lot
|
Quote:
For all high velocity loads, ie: when getting up around 2,00fps and higher, I'd suggest LBT Blue lube.
I still have a bit of the original LBT Blue - the stuff that needed a heater for the lube-sizer. With heat treated 269gr. Lyman bullets sized .377", I was able to run just over MOA at 100 meters at 2,700fps - no leading.
500gr. bullet is heavy for the restricted overall length of 2.55", but should still be able to get upwards of 1,550fps - maybe a bit better.
I suggest Hodgdon Bench Mark (you'd use ADI equivalent) - I'm sure you should be able to do those speeds with it considering the OAL restriction - without the need for special lubes. Simple Beeswax/Vaseline mixes worked for me in .45 and .50 cal. rifles, right up to 2,000fps.
Sizing the bullets .001" to .002" over groove diameter is usually a good idea.
Will need to increase my repertoire a bit, I should be back with my 9.3x62 CZ and the .404 Jeffery (custom made by Afro ) this year.
The 7x57 is an great cartridge to learn from.
Planning to download it for my daughter - 130 and 145Gr CB mouse loads with about 19 gr of 4227 (AR 2205)
Iam afraid I am not familiar with any restrictions for the .45-70 here ,Daryl. To the best of my knowledge , my friend uses them standard size.
We are working up loads for that 500 grain and I've suggested that he keep the velocity below 1400fps for that lightweight NEF single shot. Wouldnt want it causing grief at both ends.
I pan lube with BW/ Vaseline and 2 tsp each of ATF and 2 stroke.
Another fav is the BW/Vaseline with a couple of tsp of lanolin and olive oil.
Got to be careful mixing lube here. Most times , it's just right for the cooler weather we have.A heat wave last week, with 105*F heat melted and smeared one batch of lubed projjies
Pierre & eagle eyes
I've found WW marked Zn and Fe , in the lots I pick up
I was taught is not to get the smelt temp too high.i.e when the lead goes into liquidus, if there are any zinc WW, they should float to the top for easy removal.and it did happen a couple of times.Nope I don't have a thermometer, happy to gauge it by
The look and flow and ofcourse, the look of the projjies.I must say,I've learnt it's not as arcane as I first thought it to be, common sense safety features are a MUST.
I flux mercilessly with wood chips, pine dust.Wife has donated a few of her wooden spatula/ spoons to my latest madness.stir and flux at the same time.multitasking at its best,eh?
Wax as a sacrificial reductant,after the smelt is nice and clean and fluxed ad infinitum.
50-50 tin/solder stick IF the fill out is still not satisfactory after all the above.most times,I've found in my limited experience, a goodly dose of wood chip fluxing does restore the vitals like Tin back into the alloy.i have had my share of 'oatmeal' alloy though...
Cheers