There is a source of very good, quite reasonably priced moulds from Jeff Tanner in the UK. I have two of his moulds now. They fit regualr Lyman large block handles or RCBS handles. Do a google search for his web site. Unfortunately, he makes only round ball moulds. When I ordered, it was as simple as telling him the mould size I wanted, and waiting 7 days. With the mould, was a bill of sale requesting me to send a check or MO in Us funds to an address in the States.
: If you have a cylinder bore gun, you can match bore size to the round ball mould ordered. I think they are only $30.00 US, which is very cheap indeed. I use a pair of wire strippers, with the little cuttouts, to trim the spures. There is no sprue cutter on the mould. This is simple to do, and a single swipe of a wood rasp, cleans off the remaining stub to a round sphere that can be loaded any which-ee-way.
; Round balls don't tumble, per-say, but will, after a period of time, take on a spin from the air or barrel and curve away from the line of departure. This is why a non-rifled gun has limited range. The longer you can keep the ball from spinning, the better the accuray. This is why the use of a shot cup with cup upwards is such a good deal. The ball is delivered from the muzzle, static, in a non-spinning manner.
: Years ago, when I was a kid, I experimented with screwing tails of ribbon to the bals. They were fun to watch and owrkd after a fashion, but I was only 15 and knew very little of handloading, back then. I got the idea from a G&A article on putting tails of buckshot to make them pattern better. generally, the tails were blown off at the muzzle, but it was fun experimenting. See, there is no end to experimentation.
: Have fun, but be safe.