Now what about the ears that protect the rear sight? Hack saw, mill or blow them off but they got to go!!!! I cut the rear bridge down so that it will take 98 Mauser bases this gives us great leway in what mounts to use on the action. To figure the correct height use your dial calipers to measure from the bottom of the action to the top of the reciever ring and again at the rear ring. Now measure the difference between the heights of a #45 and #46 weaver base. This will let you know how much you have to cut down the rear bridge.
The Enfields can be cut back to open them up for the big stuff like the .416 Rigby. You can cut back beyond the end of the extractor with out any problems but if you are concerned about the extractor carching on the edge of the rear bridge radus the edges of the extractor a bit. However I have never found the extractor catching to be a problem.
On the P-14 and P-17, the ejector box is ugly and the spring overly strong and the ejector spring weak and prone to breaking. The ejector spring breaking is about all that goes wrong with this action but when it does you have a single shot as you have to pick the cases out of the action by hand....I have found that the best way around this is to cut off the little leaf spring and cut to notches of the approprate size and solder a coil spring in place. Between the notches and solder the coil spring will stay put and I have never seen this conversion fail. The ejector box button can go and the hole which hold it in place eliminated with a hack saw or milling machine and cleaned up with files and such. The ejector box spring is shortened and folded over to hide the now open back of the ejector box. If you do not have the means of re tempering a spring just cut off the spring at the back of the ejector box but from the rear this does not look quite as nice. When you are all done with the action you will end up with some thing looking similar to a 720 Remington which I feel is probably the best bolt gun they ever made.