Thanks W, that's fine. Understand the excitement for new info. I will do more on the post today and this weekend. If you need any extra details after reading the post's please ask.

For intermittent sun exposure during normal handling cured straight linseed and many other finish's seem to be fine. It's the rubbing & handling, with some sweat, and the various gun cleaning oils that wears through the straight linseeds I have tried.

Adding the various natural or synthetic resins to the linseed gives a finish that is more durable. You have a commercial version in the Rustins DO. The cleaner linseeds like the Swedish or the fully washed oils as per juglans work are also supposed to be less susceptible to mildew.

I am mixing the ingredients myself as I want to try the English style finish, with a good red oil first then filling and final polishing with the oil and resin mix.

Earlier this week I showed a local friend one of the offcuts with the amber mix on it. I quickly rubbed some spots with saliva, water and Svalos thinners and nothing marked it. I'll expand more on the amber in the post.

At this stage my mix still has a low ratio of the amber varnish in it. As the ratio of varnish increases it becomes an oil varnish, and is used more as a brushed finish, for musical instruments etc.

You might come up with your own variation. Perhaps try one of the Swedish linseed's I have tried and then the DO on top or try the complete finish all with red DO.

I would love to learn what professionals like Joel Dorleac use, he would have well established finishing procedures after so many years in the trade.

When you infuse the alkanet in the p'hose check the liquid is penetrating properly thru all the powder. When I tried it in a different filter bag the oil only wet the outside of the ball of powder and I could not get it to infuse properly, even by juggling the bag.

Regards,
Gabe