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Mark_Dube
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Reged: 04/01/06
Posts: 49
Loc: Ontario, Canada
J. Braddell Double Rifle
      #45661 - 04/01/06 04:18 AM

Hello all, and Happy New Year!

This is my first post here, I've been lurking in the shadows for a while.

I have posted this on Doublegun BBS, but not much input this time.

I have just purchased my first double rifle, and have a few questions.

The gun is a bar action hammer gun, Jones underlever, Damascus, 28 inch barreled rifle, with stalking safeties.

It is chambered in 577 Snider (stamped only 26).

The side plates are inscribed "J. Braddell & Son"

The rib is inscribed "Joseph Braddell & Son Improved Central fire Bar Breechloader Castle Place Belfast"

This piece is of far better finish than any of the big name double rifles I have seen/handled, and appears to be of superior quality.

The gun has 100% coverage, and the butt plate is engraved like nothing I have ever seen.

I have found only the small amount of information available from InternetGunclub.com












I have contacted Braddell & son, and received the following:

In reply to:

Thank you for your enquiry. Unfortunately I can not be of much assistance as
all the early records of the firm were lost in a fire they suffered in one
of their workshops in the late 1800's. The serial number would indicate that
the date of manufacture would be about 1840-1855.
I am sorry that I can not be more help.
Charlie Costley
Joseph Braddell & Son Ltd




Estimated Date of Manufacture seems early to me.


Although proof marks are same as Shotgun, the 26 (denoting bore) and lack of cartridge dimensins etc. leave me out of my depth in aging this piece.

I hope that one or more of you may be able to help me with age etc.

Any info on manufacturer, or photos of other guns by him would be appreciated.


Now the sad part one barrel (right) has been crudely bored out to 20 gauge. Do any of our favoured Smiths line rifled barrels of this bore, or would it need to be sleeved to return it to true double rifle status?

Thanks

Mark


--------------------
Mark


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DarylS
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Re: J. Braddell Double Rifle [Re: Mark_Dube]
      #45684 - 04/01/06 06:19 AM

Hi Mark- Little help they wee.
; The .577 Snider wasn't even invented by 1855, let alone incorporated in an underlever fine grade side-by-side centrefire double rifle. In 1855, the most modern double-guns were the newly invented pin-fire Lefaucheax(sp) - no outside primed centrefires yet. In 1868, there were some few inside-(bennet) primed rounds as in the .50/70 and rimfires. Again, no centrefires as in the .577 Snider before 1870something. It came after the .50-70 Sharps inside primed cases.
: Now, I do believe they misprinted the dates. Perhaps they meant 1870 to 1885.
: I don't have a date on the .577 Snider to hand at this moment - perhaps COTW has this data.
: To me- the engraving and finish overall appears to be mid to late 1880's. This is a 'feeling' only.

--------------------
Daryl


"a gun without hammers is like a Spaniel without ears" King George V

Edited by Daryl_S (04/01/06 06:53 AM)


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400NitroExpress
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Reged: 26/11/03
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Re: J. Braddell Double Rifle [Re: DarylS]
      #45693 - 04/01/06 07:34 AM

The Jones Screw-Grip was patented in 1859. Fleming says the .577 Snider appeared in 1866, and I imagine that these early cartridges were inside primed. What I'm not sure about is which rules of proof first required rifles to be stamped with the bore size in decimals of an inch. I know that it was required by the 1887 rules, but I think it may have been under the 1875 rules. Anybody know?

At any rate, it looks like not earlier than 1866 and not later than 1887 for sure. By the 1880s, the wedge fore-end retainer had been pretty much displaced by the various modern fore-end fasteners that were patented in the 1860s and early 1870s. My guess is early 1870s.
----------------------------------------------------------

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"Serious rifles have two barrels, everything else just burns gunpowder."


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Mark_Dube
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Loc: Ontario, Canada
Re: J. Braddell Double Rifle [Re: Mark_Dube]
      #45759 - 05/01/06 05:18 AM

Thank you Gentlemen.

You are both more knowledgable than I on this topic, but raise the same points that I have considered.

I had decided mid 1870s based primarily on the non-rebounding locks, centerfire cartridge, forend wedge, bore stamping.

Braddell stands by his dating, and suggests the possibility of a "conversion from muzzle loader"??!!??

Thoughts?

Aso what about relining the barrel(s)?

Thanks again.

Mark

--------------------
Mark


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400NitroExpress
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Re: J. Braddell Double Rifle [Re: Mark_Dube]
      #45765 - 05/01/06 05:51 AM

There were quite a few ML to BL conversions done in the 1860s and 1870s, so it's possible I suppose. From what I can see from the pics, it doesn't look like one to me.

Pity about the right barrel. I don't know of anyone offering a relining service for rifle barrels. Boring out to a larger caliber, yes, but not relining back to original caliber. Sleeving to a comparably low-pressure black round is an option, but you'll end up with a black-barreled gun. Lovely gun.
----------------------------------------------------------

--------------------
"Serious rifles have two barrels, everything else just burns gunpowder."


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bulldog563
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Re: J. Braddell Double Rifle [Re: 400NitroExpress]
      #45770 - 05/01/06 06:05 AM

Beautiful Hammer Gun. Too bad about the bored out barrel. Still a very nice piece.

--------------------
Join the National Rifle Association:
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pwm
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Loc: Banana Republik of Germany
Re: J. Braddell Double Rifle [Re: 400NitroExpress]
      #45773 - 05/01/06 06:09 AM

Its a very nice gun, very nice.
I believe its possible to make a double rifle again from this with a liner. I have a Mauser C96 pistol, you call it Boomhandle, with a srew in 9mm Parabellum liner in the original 7,63mm Mauser barrel. the 577 snyder cartridge have a max. pressure of 1600 bar when the 9mm have allmost the double pressure. look for a good craftsman!!
It may be a problem to find a .577 barrel with the same land/ groove dia. as the old one in your gun.
The 577 Snyder cartridge was maybe available from 1865 or 1866. go to the British Militaria Forum, there are the Snyder rifle experts. I can imagine that this gun startet as a muzzle loader. Knowing guns, converted first time for the pinfire cartridge and some times later for the center fire cartridge. such things happen and when only the barrels come from the muzzle loader. you can find offers in german catalogs from 1914, before WW 1, that they have converted every old muzzle loader into breechloader for low money.


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Lovec
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Reged: 01/11/05
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Loc: Europe
Re: J. Braddell Double Rifle [Re: pwm]
      #45787 - 05/01/06 09:01 AM

Mark,
as my friend Montenegrin said on the other board, this seems to be a conversion from ML to BL, circa 1868-1875.
To restore this sleeping beauty to its former shooting glory, a first rate gunsmith is required. If in your boots, I would contact Mr. Glanznig of Ferlach (Wilfried Glanznig, Werkstrasse 9, A-9170 Ferlach/Borovlje, Austria, Fax +4342274851); I'm sure there are master gunsmiths in USA that can do it properly, I just am not familiar with them.
First possibility is to line the modified barrel back to .577. Another possibility is to bore out the other barrel too, and then put .500 caliber liners to both barrels. This second approach would not be so accurate historicaly, and the barrels would be a bit heavier, but on the other hand you would gain on safety which is always good when working with old barrels of uncertain properties/condition. A third possibilty is to put .577 liners to both barrels. I would leave the final decision to the master gunsmith who would do it (but would cross my fingers in hope the third option would be acceptable).

--------------------
Kind regards,
Lovec


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BlainSmipy
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Reged: 24/11/05
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Re: J. Braddell Double Rifle [Re: 400NitroExpress]
      #45789 - 05/01/06 09:38 AM

Try this fellow, names Jim, 509-684-5855. He lines doubles and other guns. JJ sends some of his stuff to him.

Colorado

--------------------
You horde gold, I horde lead.


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mickey
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Loc: Pend Oreille Valley, Idaho
Re: J. Braddell Double Rifle [Re: BlainSmipy]
      #45791 - 05/01/06 09:52 AM

That is Jim Dubbel. Delta Gun Shop Colville WA. He rebores and relines. His work is good but perhaps not one to restore a rifle to ML specifications.




--------------------
Lovu Zdar
Mick

A Man of Pleasure, Enterprise, Wit and Spirit Rare Books, Big Game Hunting, English Rifles, Fishing, Explosives, Chauvinism, Insensitivity, Public Drunkenness and Sloth, Champion of Lost and Unpopular Causes.


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mehulkamdar
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Re: J. Braddell Double Rifle [Re: Mark_Dube]
      #45810 - 05/01/06 01:20 PM

Mark,

One of the most knowledgeable persons on the restoration of old firearms is a member called Kai'miloa at this forum. Do ask him for his opiinion on this - the forum is a British one but they happily take this man's advice on restoration projects and he is always eager to help.

If you would like to contact him personally, wend me an e-mail at guns@mehulkamdar.com and I shall pass it on to him.

Best wishes and congratulations on a fantastic gun!

--------------------
The Ark was made by amateurs. Experts built the Titanic.

Mehul Kamdar


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Otto
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Re: J. Braddell Double Rifle [Re: Mark_Dube]
      #45917 - 07/01/06 12:03 AM

Should you decide to return the status of your gun to DR, relining the rt barrel would require some extra care. Ideally you would need to match, as close as possible, the dimensions, twist and rifling of the left barrel. Also, you'll need to chamber cast the Snider chamber and have a custom reamer ground lest you end up requiring different ammo for each barrel. Jim Dubell would be my choice for this work. He makes special cutters, when required, to match groove width, and so forth. Doubtless, others are out there who could also help you. Jim's number is 509-684-5855.
Otto


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Marrakai
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Reged: 09/01/03
Posts: 3496
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Re: J. Braddell Double Rifle [Re: Otto]
      #45919 - 07/01/06 12:13 AM

Since the gun will never be 'original' again, you could consider taking the opportunity to cut slightly oversize chambers in both barrels, to shoot flat-base groove-diameter bullets rather than the original hollow-base clay-plugged bore-diameter bullets. They were an embuggerance! This is about the only way to get a Snider-chambered rifle to shoot well these days anyhow. Custom dies required of course.


--------------------
Marrakai
When the bull drops, the bullshit stops!
--------------------------------
www.marrakai-adventure.com.au


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Mark_Dube
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Reged: 04/01/06
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Loc: Ontario, Canada
Re: J. Braddell Double Rifle [Re: Mark_Dube]
      #46021 - 08/01/06 02:05 AM

Thank you all,

The knowledge, and willing assistance is allways a great supprise.

I have spoken to a few craftsmen, some won't even comment without gun in hand, others suggest enjoying my new "cape Gun" as is, so I'm on my way.

Here is a reply from a member of another forum, that very concisely summed up all of the bits on info from the replies I received here and on the DoubleGun BBS, then filled in some blanks.

In reply to:

Dear Mark,
What a beautiful double you have acquired! As an engraver I am greatly impressed with your lockplates, and can assure you that the incredible buttplate also took an enormous amount of time.
As for dating your BP rifle, we are in luck for two reasons: first, on the BB threads you referred me to several people saved me some looking by stating the .577 Snider came out in 1865-66. But most importantly, you posted clear pictures and if you look closely you will see the number 31 on the breech side of the provisional proof mark (rampant lion on bar, with script-letter GP below it). This is visible on the right barrel, and just barely visible on the left, suggesting the barrels were struck at some time - perhaps simply before the definitive proof.
Now if you can get your hands on the 1977 Gun Digest there is a superb article on British proof and proof marks (pgs. 161-72). Therein we find that the rampant lion provisional proof mark came in with the 1855 proof law, and that the stamping of bore size was done at BOTH the provisional and definitive proofs. This would explain the 31 beside your provisional proof marks, and the 26 beside your definitive proof marks. When the 1868 proof law came in, the provisional proof no longer had bore size stamping. So there you have it, your barrels were proofed between 1855 and 1868. Allowing for manufacture into a completed and engraved gun, I would say 1871 is about the latest it would have been made. The lack of rebounding locks also points to an early date, as does the .577 Snider cartridge to some extent. On a gun of this high a quality, the lack of some kind of foreend attachment other than a wedge also points to late 1860s or early 1870s too, it seems to me. Some guns "look" earlier, and some later, so by using the "forensic gunsmithing" information we have, I think a date of 1866 to 1871 is in order.
For other information on your double rifle, I would suggest you try side-light and a 10X loupe to go over your barrels some more. but more likely the loading information was in the case - now lost.
I would think you can get your bored-out barrel lined, and suggest you contact Kirk Merrington in Texas. He is English and English-trained and should be able to point you in the right direction if he does not do this himself. Phone is (830) 367-2937. JJ at Champlin Arms in Enid, Oklahoma is another person who could refer you - believe somebody on the BB mentioned a source JJ uses.
It would be nice to have your double coverted to .500 X 3" or the like, but the cost would probably be prohibitive, and would require expensive re-regulating, assuming it is strong enough for such a BPE cartridge. Keep the re-regulating in mind if you change to any other cartridge. And BTW, be sure to Cerrosafe your chamber/bore to see the exact cartridge and bore size, if you have simply been told it is .577 Snider. It may be something else! There were a wealth of cartridges tried in the late 1860s and early 1870s as the BP Express rounds were born and settled on.
You will find an article which includes loading for the .577 Snider double rifle in the Autumn, 1994 Double Gun Journal by Mel Swanson (pgs. 117-121, "Loading English Black Powder Cartridges" Part II). You are welcome to get back to me later about loading with BP. I am not experienced with nitro-for-black loads but can refer you to those who are.
Please post this on the two BBs so others can see it. It may cause dissenting remarks or other information to appear, and either are always good.
Aloha, Ka'imiloa





Thanks again.

Mark

--------------------
Mark


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Peterb
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Re: J. Braddell Double Rifle [Re: Mark_Dube]
      #46024 - 08/01/06 03:57 AM

They have been in business a long time so it is hard to give some cast in concrete comments. However, from the Braddels I have owned, I believe the guns were manufactured by others and finished by Braddel. The one I liked the most was a 5 1/4# 12 Ga hammerless underlever.

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mehulkamdar
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Re: J. Braddell Double Rifle [Re: Mark_Dube]
      #46329 - 11/01/06 03:33 AM

Mark,

I hope you would not mind my posting another response from Ka'imiloa which he sent you with a CC to me with a request that it be posted here:

Dear Mark,

I had a bit of time this morning and saw that you had posted my comments about your fine Braddell double rifle on NitroExpress.com. Thank you, and I hope they will be of some use to others too. Just before your post, I saw one from a fellow in Australia who suggested you alter your chambers to a groove-sized bullet. I don't think you need to do this, because a black powder with enough oomph like 1870s Curtis and Harvey #6 powder will turn your bullets into groove sized ones before they leave the chamber. Obturation is what was relied on in these old rifles, the same as factory Sharps ammunition.

Most nitro-for-black loads, from what I have read, do not have the rapid-peak chamber pressure generated by a good black powder and thus have trouble obturating bullets properly, especially many of today's commercial bullets turned out with harder alloys. Even a flat based pure lead (or perhaps very slightly hardened with tin for better casting, such as 1:50) bullet should obturate with a "hot" black powder like 1.5F or 2F Swiss or 2F KIK. No, not Elephant or Goex. Paper patching OR one or two vegetable fiber Walters Wads should prevent any leading problems, but use a good BLACK POWDER lube beneath and on your bullet if not using paper patch. If using PP, lube between wads, under the wrapped bullet, helps in softening fouling.

Your gun should, in my opinion, be strong enough to handle Triple 7 too, since it is about like Swiss 2F from what I have read. But whether it has the sharp initial peak to its pressure curve that "hot" black powder does would be the question. Again, instant obturation of your bullet is the key. I wouldn't worry about the clay plug in the base of the bullet. If you need to use it, a hollow based bullet will obturate better, just as the Minie bullets of old were made. However, it may be that the clay plug was to prevent the twisted base of a paper patch from lodging in the bullet's hollow base and possibly causing accuracy problems.

2F KIK black powder, now being imported to the U.S. from Europe once again I believe, seems to have a unique pressure curve which is very much like C&H #6, and it has been known to regulate BP double rifles when other BPs have not. Please keep in mind that we now have a bunch of BP and BP substitute powders to try, just as the smokeless loaders do, and that their peak pressures can vary by 30% or so. H-4198 smokeless often used now for nitro-for-black loading may actually generate LESS peak pressure than BP! (See Grame Wright's pressure records from the Birmingham proof house in his marvelous book Shooting British Double Rifles.) But remember that means the nitro load has to generate more AVERAGE pressure clear down the barrel than BP, in order to create higher velocity at the muzzle.

Again, I hope you will post these comments to the two BBs so they may be of use to others as well.

Aloha, Ka'imiloa

Best wishes and congratulations on your very fine rifle!




--------------------
The Ark was made by amateurs. Experts built the Titanic.

Mehul Kamdar


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Marrakai
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Re: J. Braddell Double Rifle [Re: mehulkamdar]
      #46337 - 11/01/06 05:24 AM

Mehul & Ka'imiloa:
Your suggestions regarding obturation of the Snider projectile are quite logical of course, but are not generally found to work in practice.

As you know, the Snider is an evolution of the Enfield muzzle-loader, designed initially to use scavenged Enfield barrels and also the vast stocks of cast projectiles the Brits had stockpiled for the many wars of Empire. In the muzzle-loader, initial combustion at firing obturated the hollow-based minie-type bullet into the rifling just as it started to move, and all was well.

However, when the minie is loaded into a brass cartridge case, and the chamber mouth is bore-diameter only, as in the Snider, then the bullet obturates inside the case-mouth at firing and is therefore not fully expanded to groove diameter when it leaves the case. The problem with the Snider cartridge is that the powder charge is not large, and pressure drops below that required to continue obturation before the bullet completely exits the case-mouth. The bullet therefore enters the barrel while smaller than groove diameter, and stays that way. Accuracy suffers of course.

The Brits developed the clay or wooden base-plug in an attempt to continue expansion of the skirt after the bullet entered the rifling, and the final marks of ammunition were apparently fairly successful. A real headache for the home-reloader now-days, though. This is why I made the suggestion to open up the chambers slightly so that a groove-diameter flat-based bullet could be seated in the case.

In the US, other Snider shooters have solved this problem by developing a 'heeled' bullet, whereby the front of the projectile protruding from the case is groove diameter in the manner of a .22 rimfire bullet, and that is another option.




There was a very good article on reloading the Snider cartridge in a British 'Guns Review' magazine many years ago, if you want to retain the original chamber and shoot minies. Those guys cast their own base-plugs out of plasti-bond if I recall! Otherwise read Coyote's articles on the British Militaria Snider forum here: There's an 8-page 'sticky' over there on Snider accuracy: CoyoteAndMommote's posts start about page 4.

Apologies to Ka'imiloa, I didn't mean to cloud the issue of reloading for Mark's lovely Braddell rifle, however the business of getting the Snider cartridge to shoot well is not as simple as it sounds!

I dabble with a 3-band volunteer-pattern Mk.III by the way, made by Barnett of London.

Have fun!

--------------------
Marrakai
When the bull drops, the bullshit stops!
--------------------------------
www.marrakai-adventure.com.au


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pwm
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Re: J. Braddell Double Rifle [Re: Marrakai]
      #46421 - 12/01/06 05:19 AM

I dont recommend other than full bore bullets for such cartridges, it may work in BPE barrels but the snider isn't in this class. When I get a cape gun with a full rifled 28 bore a Lee 585 Minie, 480 grain mould laying around here. the 40mm long case hold 100 grain Wasag blackpowder and I get a strong cartridge with a NDFS 577 snider die set. But also with this Minie bullet it shoots not realy good. the barrel was very good with a .605 groove dia.. Make a hammer swage die and rework the minie's to groove diameter, it shoots allways better.
If you playing around with your dies you will be able to set any bullet. oversized lead bullets can be set with this die and run then a second time in the resizing die, without decaping pin. this reduce the bullet diameter inside of the case and make a "heeled bullet".
old german cartridges like 9,3x72 R or 8,15x46R hade allways have a stopring bullet. that means a oversized driving band sit 's on the top of the grease grooves. the CIP list show this for the 9,3x72R: common bullet diameter is .364 but the list have a max bullet diameter of .376" - yes this is true.
Nowbody ever load a .376 bullet in the 9,3x72R, this was the max. dia. of the driving band from lead bullets.
BTW this helps allso by loading ammo with simple handload tools because the driving band sit on the case mouth and give a uniform length of all cartridges.


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